Early Morning Point Break Surfing
A point break is a long, well shaped wave that breaks over reef, rocks, cobblestones, and sand. What's it like to ride a good point break? Well, lets say you're an advanced surfer, preparing to surf a very good point break on a perfect day. You waken early and have a quick power breakfast, some yogurt and granola and possibly a banana or two. You wash it all down, put on your surfing shorts, and get on down to the point break. You show up to the paddlle-out place and look out to sea, and it's superb, so there you are, ready and beaming while viewing perfect lines stacked up, clear to the horizon, and several pals who are satisfied, but seem frosty that are about to paddle out with you. So you observe the waves for a few minutes, timing the sets, and when it seems like a lull is approaching, you all run as fast as possible to the sea with your board, launch yourself into the shorebreak and land on your surfboard, to get a great running start for your paddle out. Now, that initial jump into the daybreak ocean feels sooo wonderful, and once you're settled and paddling out, you look up, and move it on out to the lineup.
You will most likely be hit by some set waves in the course of your paddle out, but there are strategies of dealing with even rather large waves without needing to bail your surfboard. There are certainly occasions when abandoning your surfboard is your only choice, but this ought to definitely be your selection of last resort. Abandoning your surfboard is almost always a bad idea - your leash can rip, leaving you without a surfboard, and your board can smack into somebody who might just smack you back! So, you learn two different skills for paddling out - one is named "duck diving", and the other one is termed "turning turtle". Duck diving is the method used by shortboarders, and longboarders commonly turn turtle if the waves are head high or bigger. Otherwise, longboarders can duck dive too, or due to the fact they have a big board that can paddle quickly, in little waves they can typically just bulldoze their way out over the foamball.
Now, getting back to this morning's session, lets look at every thing that has taken place so far:
Everything is wonderful. What I am about to write, I write with utmost sincerity: This without a doubt is the very best thing that any person could ever hope for... I can't contemplate anything more suitable than the following description: You cheer your kids on, and at the same time they teach you how to surf, you heckle your acquaintances, and you surf on the best point break waves conceivable. Cruise liners and high class lodging don't even compare. It's all about discovering perfect waves; waves that you'll never forget. Surfing is very enjoyable, but that's not all. It is also good for teaching respect, and how to be patient and to relax. You can't find any greater therapy than this
Lets take a look at my 1st wave of today now. I'm now surfing on what could possibly turn out to be an outstanding wave. It's peaking up early, and it seems as though I can pull into a nice tube, right off the drop. I pull into the barrell and see the wave going above my head. I look out of the tube and return a smile to a girl who's grinning at me. Then I come soaring out of the barrell at a very high speed. Following, I make a hard, fast drive down the line of the wave, make a turn off the bottom and do a cutback. I do this turning back into the splitting part of the wave with all the force I can muster, and I pull it off. I realize, then, that my legs have become numb. For this reason, I wait a bit, pant, smack my legs, and when my strength is back, I go ahead and do some tricks, with an effort to conclude the wave with a silly manuever. Then I walk back to the point for some water, sunblock, and back to the waves it is...
You might possibly be asking the next questions: What makes point break so awesome? and, Why did Bodhisatva commit himself to them? The following details are some really good reasons: