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surfeo en costa rica

 

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Telekinesis

I can remember being a kid, somewhere around eight years of age, trying to bend metal and break tree branches with my mind. Of course, at the time I found it all confusing, never able to achieve any significant telekinetic connection between the matter and my will. I would sit and stare for hours at one insignificant little flower, chosen for it's already wilted qualifications, ready to fall naturally at any minute, and I would try with all my might to will just one petal to drop to the ground. Granted, I didn't really know what a will was, but beyond all reason, even my own, I ...


Occular Nymphoma

My father was a spook. I know that might sound strange coming out of the mouth of a somewhat homeless surf bum, but it's true. My entire childhood and adolescence was spent shrouded behind a man who never once told me the truth concerning his occupation as a government man working for the CIA. It was only after his disappearance that my mother finally told me what my dad did for a living.

You know how it is when you are a kid. You don't really pay attention to the profession of your parents unless they do something spectacular, like work in a zoo or on television. I saw ...


A Bowl of Soup

I've heard it said before... it takes a generation, an age, to make an individual. The boiling cauldron of self is made with the onions of religion, the potatoes of culture, the pepper of society, the salt of peers and the bullion of law and order.

Believe me when I say that I'm no hater, and yet when I look around me, when I ...


Riding the Tube

Surfing good waves is always more fun than just hangin' around... as a matter of fact, it's more fun than just about anything I can think of. There is one aspect of surfing, however, that is more than just fun... it is, in fact, much like making love, or even being born again. That most amazing of feelingsis called getting barrelled, and if you ask any long-time, well-traveled surfer, they'll pretty much all say exactly the same thing - there's nothing they would rather do than get into a long, deep tube, completely dissapearing from a beachgoer's view, and then speed out of the ...


An Apple a Day

An apple a day keeps the doctor away.  Well, that may be true, it sure can't hurt, and it's tasty, so I think I'll have myself a Granny Smith.

And sure enough, no doctors came slinkin' around the house today, like a salesman in the grass trying to sell you his oil, or a mailman working long hours after the sun goes down in a part of town he has no business being in anyway. City life, city dreams and nightmares slowly assimilating their way into our waking moments and scaring the crap into our subconscious, giving us brand-new phobias with ...


Poop Deck

 Well, this Salsa Brava story may make a few of the local fellas mad, and I do apologize to them, but they do all know the
feeling...

One nice day, with waves a couple of feet overhead, I was surfing the second peak, to get away from the crowd up at first peak.
Everything was going great - I was getting good waves, not taking any bad wipeouts, and the sun was shining on my back...until
it wasn't.  See, I had just drank a hot cup of ...


Fish Libido

At first I couldn't believe what I was reading. Sometimes the news isn't always truthful, to say the least, but Wow! Here's what the associated press recently said about Prozac contaminants in the oceans of the world. The article stated that the pharmaceutical drug Prozac is slowly bleeding into the oceans and contaminating them with residuals from the drug. The effects, on a global proportion, are leading to a decline in certain species of very colorful fish.

The scientists who performed the study stated that the anti-depressive drug Prozac in some way ...


Surf With a Smile

So you say you want to learn how to surf? Are you sure? Maybe you should learn how to fish first. Surfing is a sport concieved of and practiced by Hawaiaan royalty, not the slob who prefers television to actual physical action.
If you can't get your butt off the couch then don't even bother, because you'd be better off burping up Budweiser during Monday Night Football! Much better for you to just go fishing off the dock. But if you want to learn how to surf, well, then do we have something for you.

How many of you ever actually get a chance to interact ...


Culo Rosado

There's so many special places in Costa Rica; so many beaches, points, and reefbreaks, but there's nowhere quite like the beautiful, pristine, Isla Uvita, an island that lies about a mile off the coast of the city of Limon. The photo album I have of my months spent camping on the island was unfortunately lost at sea - (I left it too close to the tide-line on the beach, and the high tide took it away) - but the real memories I have of the place are in my heart, where they could never be forgotten.

I was little more than a kid when I arrived, a 19 year old ...


The Best Wave of My Life

You've decided which wave of the set you want, so you go for it, hard - paddle to the takeoff spot, whether it's going to be a right or a left wave*, and when you've paddled to the exact correct position, you wait for the wave to arrive, turn towards the beach, and then paddle for all you're worth. You catch the wave, stand up, and drop in, either going frontside or backside to the wave, and then you find yourself in the perfect spot to either pull straight in to the tube, or make a bottom turn and then pull in. Charging it, in and committing yourself to a heavy barrel, is simply ...


Early Morning Point Break Surfing

A point break is a long, well shaped wave that breaks over reef, rocks, cobblestones, and sand. What's it like to ride a good point break? Well, lets say you're an advanced surfer, preparing to surf a very good point break on a perfect day. You waken early and have a quick power breakfast, some yogurt and granola and possibly a banana or two. You wash it all down, put on your surfing shorts, and get on down to the point break. You show up to the paddlle-out place and look out to sea, and it's superb, so there you are, ready and beaming while viewing perfect lines ...


Near Death

It was another perfect day at Salsa Brava, around double overhead, with perfectly shaped right and left barrels. I was having a blast surfing with my rastaman friends, and had gotten two left tubes already that morning, wide open barrels with perfect shoulders, that sent me smoothly out of the tubes and out onto the clean shoulder, close to the main outgoing channel.

That's the thing about paddling out at Salsa - it can be huge, triple overhead, and you can still have dry-hair paddle outs, due to channel formed by the underwater topography of the ...


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